Back to Guatemala
Updated 06/26/09
Petén Information.
There always seem to be old stories out there about the safety aspects of actual travel in Guatemala, despite major improvements in recent years. Even the guidebooks have not really kept up with facts on the ground. Some things that were happening some years back are still told as if they are going on today. See the web page of the US embassy in Guatemala for dates and details of major crimes against foreigners in order to better figure out any trends and situations to avoid. It looks like there may still be some targeting of tour buses My opinion is that it has never been entirely safe to visit anywhere, but knowing what to be careful of is helpful.
Local companies ~ Airlines Buses and Shuttles Car Rentals Hotels Ruins Spanish Schools
Petén Tour Agencies Volunteering in Petén. Useful Flores phone numbers Miscellaneous
Navigating the Guatemala City and the Flores Airports. Current Weather and Ten Day Forecast for Flores
Use this Trip Planner for Flores weather. Petén Map Current and Historical Exchange Rate to the US dollar.
How to get to El Mirador --- Getting to Uaxactún without a tour. Going from Flores to Palenque on your own,
Getting to Tikal and back. Thoughts about trash. Do you need a visa? Guatemalan Bus Schedules
Getting to El Mirador by Helicopter is affordable if you can go on one of their selected
dates and enough people sign up for all of the other flight options, or check out exploremirador.com.
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General Petén Information
Petén is the northern most Department in Guatemala. In its forests are a number of ruin sites that were major centers of the Pre-classic and Classic Maya civilization.
The pre-Hispanic city was
was known as Noh Petén or Big Island. Sometimes it was also called Tah Itzá, or the Place of the Itzá. At the time of its
conquest in 1697, it had been the last still functioning independent Maya city
anywhere, having been founded by the Itzá people after they left Chichén
Itzá and later Mayapán in Mexico during the late Post-Classic There was some belief among some of the Itzá that an 8 Ahau period ending date was prophetic for turning over the area to the Spanish. The latter tried to use the prophecy to convince Itzá to do so, but most of the indigenous locals were not taken in. However, the Spanish were never put out by a lack of invitation, they came, built large canoes, massacred many and took the city. The Spanish destroyed the pyramids, temples and religious icons of Noh Petén. They pronounced Tah Itzá as Tayasal and replaced the rubble with the Spanish city of Flores. The dispersal of the survivors into the jungle may have even given rise to the myth of a surviving and lost Maya city. There are still Itzá villages in the area at San Andrés. San José and San Miguel. Although a boatman may offer a visit to a "Tayasal" on the other side of the lake, this can be doubtful. Much of Noh Petén or Tah Itzá lies beneath the city of Flores, and it doesn't require any boat trip. However, if your boatman takes you on the other side of the very close peninsula where San Miguel sits, you can see impressive remains of part of a city where no archaeological work goes on, but which preceded the coming of the Itzá.
Online Services
Airlines to and From Flores
International USAir does some International Flights via Cancun. Grupo TACA to and from USA, Belize, Cancún and Guate. Get an idea of TACA Flight Schedules between Guate, Flores and Cancun.
National TAG flies between Guate and Flores and from Guate to Copan. Tropic Air to and from Belize only. You may very well do better to book via an agent when you are in Guatemala. Check out the weather in Flores
Local Rental Cars in the Flores (FRS) Airport
Koka Rent Autos Phone: 7926 1233, 7926 0526 Rent Autos Garrido Phone: 7926 0079
Auto Rental San Juan 7926 0041
Note that the airport is only a couple of miles from Flores. If not bringing a lot of baggage, just do a very short walk out to the highway and turn right to hop a 5-10Q tuk tuk or to enjoy a relatively short walk.
Adonis Lopez, who is across the lake from Flores in San Andrés, arranges trips in Spanish to El Mirador and other places from there.
Cafe Yaxhá, in its form as The Mayan Adventure, has affordable (for four people) day trips to Yaxhá and another ruin, La Blanca, and some two or three day trips by 4 wheel drive vehicle that include those sites and Nakum. You can choose to camp or for more money, to stay at a nice hotel at Yaxhá. If you have a group, you can also come up with affordable trips to some of the more obscure Maya sites in 4 WD double cab trucks.
You could arrange a trip to El Mirador and/or Nakbé directly with the Carmelita, but you need to speak Spanish. The Cooperative seems to be essentially defunct and I only have one contact so far. I was listing Rudy Marroquín, but he definitely overcharged someone whom I know to be credible.
If you are alone or in a small group and your Spanish is limited, but you want to trek to El Mirador or from El Zotz to Tikal, try Los Amigos Hostel to arrange things. You will still have a Spanish speaking guide, but arranging it would be simpler.
Fanny's Tours has offices in Santa Elena, Guate and Chiquimula.
Iwana Tours is based in Flores and offers tours of Tikal, Dos Pilas and Aguateca, Yaxhá, and Cancuén.
La Casa de Don David in El Remate does a number of tours.
Martsam Travel lists a lot of tours.
Nitun near San Andrés sounds impressive if you can afford to pay a bit more.
San Juan Travel. If they had a website, I would not list it. I have read too many bad things about them over time to recommend anything but avoiding them, especially for the Flores-Palenque trip. For getting to Tikal, unless you take a bus from Santa Elena, you are stuck with them.
Tikal Canopy Tours. The price includes shuttle to Tikal, but charged extra from island of Flores when I looked.
Tikal Connection, formerly Ecomaya, runs some relatively low-priced tours to El Mirador, El Zotz and El Peru, but you can often do better elsewhere. My brief experiences in dealing with them suggests that they are somewhat more likely to respond to an email in Spanish. E-mail them and follow up if needed.
Tikalpark.com will arrange various trips from Tikal, with returns to
either Tikal or Flores. Just keep in mind that you can
visit Uaxactún overnight via bus much
Tikal Travel is based in Melchor de Mencos, Petén and advertises many different tours, but has no prices listed.
In Sayaxché, Viajes Don Pedro is visible on the river. 7928 6109. I used this agency to get to Dos Pilas and Aguateca.
Walfre Chí', of San Andrés, the hard working and helpful guide on my March 2008 trip, who has worked at Yaxhá and Nakúm for the past five seasons, is now guiding on his own. He plans on getting people to interesting places that most agencies in Flores ignore, and some that they don't, such as El Mirador.
See Flores Phone Numbers for other agencies and sources.
Miscellaneous Items Looking to learn more Spanish in a pleasant place, such as Flores? Consider Academia de Español "Dos Mundos" Listen to Guatemalan Música from Poptún Scarlet Macaw Biological Station A Satellite Photo of the Flores Area These could simplify paying deposits for treks. Escuela de Español Bio-Itza (Spanish School), San José Information about Tikal Park Goodtime Bob's many photos of Tikal How to not travel between Palenque and Flores. How to travel between Flores and Palenque Interesting trip between Guate and Flores via Coban Continued environmental problems of the El Mirador/Río Azul park area. The Story of Carmelita and El Mirador. Allianza Verde. (in Spanish) The Green Alliance is a group of local businesses that believes that the only hope for saving even a part of the Petén jungles is through responsible tourism that involve the local populations. Learn about efforts to save the Mirador Basin. A review of Petén Conservation efforts and problems Read abut Propetén A Petén Journey. Mike Reed made it to Dos Pilas, El Ceibal and Uaxactún. Tikal Ruins, a good description of a traveler's view of Tikal. A Trip to El Mirador. It's not all that hard. A Recent Article about the Pre-classic Collapse. an article by archaeologist Richard Hansen.
Volunteer Petén in San Andrés also has a language school. Volunteer to work at repatriating wildlife with ARCAS. The Scarlet Macaw Biological Station is located on the San Pedro River, which has nice bass and tilapia in it. BYO fishing equipment for a spare time activity.
La Muerta, near El Mirador
A tourist in the Mirador Basin
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To Tikal Asociación de
Transportes runs buses
between Santa Elena
and Tikal, leaving the bus station at 6:00 AM, 6:30, 7:00, 8:30, 10:00, 11:30, and 12:30 PM
for 20Q. There are also runs at 1300 and 1500 to Tikal
ending in Uaxactún.
If you come in on an overnight bus, you will
be in the same station as this
option. If your bus is first class or better, there
will be at least one offer of a van ride to Tikal.
Night bus and
shuttle to Antigua
Van Rental If you have a group and want reasonable prices for
getting to places in Petén, toward Palenque or to Belize, take a look at
Mayan
Adventure.com Linea Dorada runs
Tikal Mayan World,
which runs luxury buses to and from Flores to Belize and to Chetumal, Mexico. It looks like you
could book online if you need to.
Take the reference to bar and food with a grain of salt. BYO adult beverages and
food consisted of soda and a sandwich on the overnighter I was on.
Autobuses del
Norte runs regular first class buses between Guate and Flores, including a
night one.
Note that if you type in autobusesdelnorte.com without the www, you will wind up
at a sneaky Linea Dorada website instead.
Fuente del Norte has several night first class buses
and a couple day ones to Flores. Check these
timetables.
Turansa
runs shuttles between
Flores and Cobán.
Scroll down that page.
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City Information and Hotels by
Location
INGUAT List $50 and under
Bethel
Posada
Maya Bethel is not online but has a
restaurant, allows
camping and can arrange transportation down the Usumacinta
to Mexico.
(502) 5801-1799 or 1800, but you can do
that yourself when there. This is an
important stopover only if you are late in the day and are heading to
Palenque and Yaxchilán.
Carmelita
One of the comedors has rooms for 35Q per person as of January 2006
call
7861 1809.
Ask for Brenda Zapata. El
Remate
Visit Flores on YouTube (in Spanish)
The Hotel Santana has a pool and some rooms with balconies and a great view of the lake and it made a great splurge in early January of 2006 and February 2007. Hotel Doña Rosa a is a friendly family run place that includes a public water bottle for guests. It is on the north end on Calle Fraternidad. 7827 5279 Hotel Mirador del Lago, 15 de Septiembre, 7926 3276 is not online, but it is clean and inexpensive. Hostel Los Amigos has e-mail, and is a good budget place with a decent inexpensive restaurant. It also has extensive directions and bus and shuttle schedules on its website. Hotel Sabana is less expensive than the other hotels in town with pools that I am aware of and it has a beautiful view from the northern end of the isla. Hotel Villa del Lago looks nice enough. La Casona de la Isla was great for a splurge after the Mirador Basin in 2002, because of its pool. Casazul looks okay for a splurge.
Near Flores on the Lake
Melchor de Mencos Rio Mopan Lodge is a bit expensive, but has a tour agency right there. Hotel y Restaurante La Cabaña advertises a pool and AC.
Poptún Hotel Tropical Inn has parking and a pool in town and is not expensive. South of town Finca Ixobel
Listen to Música from Poptún.
Raxrujá (right across the border from Petén toward Cobán) El Amigo is inexpensive, nice, has a pool and provides purified water.
San Jose (Across the lago from Flores} Expensive Hotel Bahia Taitza has rooms and bungalows, hot water, parking and a restaurant.
San Luis (south of Poptún) See the city website
Santa Elena See a good comparison of the merits of staying in Flores vs. Santa Elena.
Sayaxché. The Guayacán is not terribly pricey and it is the the best place in Sayaxché, which isn't saying a lot. I have enjoyed sitting outside sipping a beer on its large porch after a hard day. 7926 6111 Hotel Petexbatun is not online, but it sounds like a better buy. 7928 6166,
Near Sayaxché (Anything listed below tends toward very expensive. If on a smallish budget, Sayaxché might be the place to stay) Posada Caribe is one hour by boat from town, and also has camping and e-mail. Petex Batun Lodge is expensive, but also has dorm rooms. Chiminos Island Lodge is on the Río de la Pasión. It is expensive, but it is in a wonderful location if you want to get away from it all and see some nearby ruins. However, if you are looking to see the ruins on the property, don't expect to be impressed.
Tikal
These hotels are all expensive, but the Jungle Lodge probably still has some small, dark cheaper rooms. Check on them in person. It also advertises having a pool. The Jaguar Inn rents hammocks and mosquito nets that are already set up. These are first come; first served and cost $7. I understand that it also has tents for $10. Room reservations made by e-mail without a deposit are held until noon of the arrival day. There is a 10% surcharge on credit cards, so bring cash or traveler's checks. Tikal Inn has a pool and direct e-mail that works for reservations and info . It also has expensive Internet for guests.
Comedor Imperio Maya has good food at decent prices for Tikal. So does the one next door.
Check in the restaurant at the Visitor's Center to see if one of their very basic lodgings is available for 50Q. You can also camp there for less, but you will need to leave belongings for safekeeping at the center while visiting the park.
You can also leave your pack at the Visitors' Center for a small fee if you are either heading to Uaxactún for the night or you decide to not spend the night at Tikal and return to Flores.
Check out El Remate
How to get there without a tour. EcoCampamento is basic and has hammocks with mosquito nets under a palapa. 7926 0077 El Chiclero has friendly management, inexpensive rooms, camping and good food in its restaurant.
Yaxhá Eco-Sombrero is a bit steep, but it is nice and it is the only one available to outsiders there in case you are planning to spend the night. The owner can also arrange trips to Nakúm, which is a wonderful site and to others. Correct phone numbers are (502) 7926-5228, fax (502) 7926-5528 , tel. (502) 7926-5229.
Some Other Petén Hotels. Most are not online, but it does include some budget places.
For good discussions of Maya ruins by non-native speakers of English in Guatemala, see Authenticmaya.com
or see many photos
and a youtube view
Altar de Sacrificios
El
Ceibal photos
La Corona
(Site Q) (a collection of artifacts in town)
Piedras Negras
See some
photos
You
can get to these ruins
as a day trip from
Palenque and
Tikal Links
Yaxhá in Spanish
Yaxhá Tour Beginning in Spanish Tour Part 2 Below
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If you need more info, ask questions at Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree, but don't be an idiot. Do a search
there first before asking a question that may have been answered only recently. If you register and ask a question,
the suggestions from travelers can come straight to your email address.
Adonis Lopez does tours to El Mirador, Nakbé and other places from San Andres, across the lake from Flores.
He speaks Spanish only: 7928-8106 or e-mail brenda_aventuras (at) hotmail.com. His quote for a 6 day trip to El Mirador and Nakbé for two people in August 2005 was $300 each, including transport from San Andres. More people would be less, as would a 5 day trip just to El Mirador. To get to the departure point, you would take one of the frequent buses and minivans that go to San Andres/San José from the bus station.
It is a small city on a small island, but it has a wide
range of hotels, and all but one of the seriously
expensive ones cater
to very wealthy tourists are elsewhere.
It is a logical base for seeing local ruins, such as Tikal,
Yaxhá, Nakúm, El Peru and Naranjo, and for arranging trips
to El Mirador and Nakbé. One can even take one of the
regular boats from the northern end of the island to see the
ruins of a Classic site above the village of San Miguel on
your own. It is also good for arranging
onward transportation when you are ready to leave.
It is right across the causeway from Santa Elena,
where there are more ATMs than the one next to Hotel Petén, and
there is an interesting, though mostly
non-artisan market.
You don't have to support the virtual monopoly of Tikal shuttles by San Juan Travel. This is located in the Santa Elena bus station and lists buses to Tikal at 6, 6:30, 7, 8:30, 10, 11:30 AM and 12:30 PM, arriving two hours later. Later ones leaving at 1 and 3 PM continue onward to Uaxactún. The phone is listed as 5849 8887.
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